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Dear Theophilus Archive: October 2002

My Favorites of Philly Revisited


By Song Lee

Hello everyone. My name is Song. Last year I wrote an article on some of my favorite places to eat in Philadelphia. This year I just wanted to add on to that list with some new places I visited over the past year. Once again, I just want to state for the record that I am not a culinary expert or food critic. I like to eat and this is just a list of my favorite places. Also, since I am a married man, it should be clearly understood that my favorite place in the universe to eat is at home.

I’ve added a frozen pizza section at the end. I think this should be helpful especially for those who don’t like to cook and don’t have the time and/or money to eat out (bachelors, thank me later). So here goes:

Favorite place:

Vietnam Restaurant. Located on 11th St. between Race and Vine. This is the only place I wanted to include from last year’s list, because it is still my favorite place in Philly. The quality of food is just as good. However, during peak times it tends to get crowded so plan carefully. Try any one of the barbecue platters, spring rolls, sweet and sour shrimp soup (ask for it spicy), and broken rice dishes. Their coconut ice cream for dessert is excellent.

Italian:

Last year I was very ashamed that I couldn’t come up with a good Italian place. This year I have two. Radicchio Café on 4th and Wood is really amazing. This is the best Italian restaurant I’ve ever been to. They get my Rookie of the Year Award. This place recently opened several months ago and already the word is out. Everything is delicious but my favorites are the linguine del mare (linguine with shrimp and scallops in an oil and garlic sauce) and the penne granseola (penne with crabmeat in a creamy tomato sauce). Also, the prices are very reasonable, because it is a BYOB.

Bucca di Beppo on 15th St. between Locust and Spruce is another notable mention. (By the way, Bucca di Beppo means ‘my beautiful toes’.) This place also opened a few months ago and is part of a chain. It has a very fun and decorative atmosphere and the food is quite good. It is a family style restaurant -- the portions are huge, and I mean huge. When you go, check out some of the odd decorations, especially the light switch in the men’s bathroom.

Seafood:

DiNardo’s Famous Crabs on Race St. between 3rd and 4th. This place is for crab lovers. I must admit that I’m not a big fan of crabs but theirs are quite good especially with the old bay seasoning. They also have other fine seafood selections. Try out a basket of their fries.

Bookbinders on 15th St. between Walnut and Locust. This is not the original Bookbinders at 125 Walnut (which is currently closed for renovations), but they do have a very good seafood selection. I must admit that I haven’t been here in quite some time but I believe that this is one of those places where you might be able to find a 3-7 pound lobster if you’re craving a snack. One thing about seafood restaurants is that they tend to be expensive for some of the quality establishments. Budget conscious people beware!

Korean:

I mentioned 5th St. last year but I just wanted to elaborate. Philadelphia is not known for Korean food but 5th St. has most of the choice spots. Starting from south to north, Tae Hwa Gwon is a cha-jang-myun place. Next, Kim’s restaurant is a great kal-bi place. It also goes by Go Ruh Jung and it’s really just a big converted trailer. The ventilation stinks (no pun intended) so wear something you can destroy afterwards. After that, Jong Ga Jib is an excellent soon-doo-boo place. Since last year, they’ve also expanded their menu but I’d still stick to the soon-doo-boo. Also, I was pleasantly surprised by the good service. Finally, there’s Han Chon. Most people come here for the sul-long-tang, but all of the other stuff is really good, too. Fans of the famous Gam Mee Ok of Manhattan should not expect the sul-long-tang to be as good here. But tough cookies. A last note on 5th St., I’ve noticed that they’ve recently repaved the entire road. Although the scenery is still as hideous as ever, at least you’ll have a smooth ride in satisfying your Korean craving. And remember, for those new to the city, make sure you take an experienced guide with you when touring our beloved 5th St.

Asian fusion:

Buddakan on Chestnut between 3rd and 4th. I think the food here is fantastic. They have an eclectic assortment of interestingly looking dishes that actually taste good. My only personal drawback is that they have a big golden Buddha in the middle of the restaurant with a long table in front of it. I chose not to sit and eat in front of the Buddha lest I spend the entire dinner staring at it . A little pricey so save it for those special occasions (it’s worth it).

Morimoto on Chestnut between 7th and 8th. I think the food here is not all that. They have an eclectic assortment of interestingly looking dishes that actually don’t taste good. Maybe it’s because I’m just a simpleton but I didn’t really understand the ‘neo-Japanese’ cuisine that Masaharu Morimoto is so famous for. However, I have heard from some people that they’ve really loved it. Expensive. Real expensive.

Cuban:

Cuba Libre on 2nd between Market and Chestnut. I confess that this is the only Cuban place that I know in the city. The food is good. Decor is relaxing and fun. Interesting selection of appetizers. Definitely try the 2nd St. gaucho steak (a spice-rubbed ribeye), but stay away from the Arroz con pollo. They also have a reasonably priced brunch menu. Try the dessert with the caramelized bananas. Their coffee with coconut milk is good but quite a ‘handful’.

Novelty:

Victor Café on Dickinson between 13th and 14th. This is the most interesting out of all the restaurants that I’ve been to in Philly. The Italian food here is suspect, but most of the people do not come here for the food. They come for the lively atmosphere where approximately every 15 minutes, one of the waiters will start singing an aria from an opera. Apparently, they audition when they apply to become one of the wait staff. When you go, hope and pray that the chubby waiter is there because he is the best singer there. A good dessert is the molten chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream. A little expensive but an excellent place for that first or second date where the entertainment can help through the initial awkward phase of a budding and beautiful relationship.

Fast-food:

Popeyes Chicken and Biscuits. I admit that fast-food is very subjective and varies according to everyone’s personal preferences. Usually someone will like one particular item at a fast-food joint and that will be the predominant reason for making that their favorite place. I admit this to be true in my case. Although not everything is good at Popeyes, I believe that their chicken sandwich is so good that one can get addicted to it if they’re not careful. The chicken breast is crunchy on the outside and moist and tender on the inside. It is also marinated with spices which puts it over the top over the 2nd best chicken sandwich at Chick-fil-A. Also, their biscuits should be the standard by which all other biscuits should be measured. Unlike most other fast-food joints, for one reason or another, most of the Popeyes that I’ve frequented are usually in the rougher sections of a neighborhood. However, I believe that adding a little element of danger makes the food all the more enjoyable.

Frozen pizza:

I realize that some people may question my sanity for adding a frozen pizza list but I confess that every now and then, I crave a frozen pizza. I’ve been eating frozen pizza for about 20 years, and the technology and taste of frozen pizzas have improved considerably. However, I feel like I’m still just a beginner every time I walk past the frozen foods section of a supermarket. (I still haven’t tried all of them.) For those who are closet frozen pizza fans or for those who never tried but would like to, here’s my list in order from best to not worth having:
  • Di Giorno’s: By far the best and is the only one that is actually better than some of the pizza parlors. Reminds me of the way grandma used to make it. Remember, ‘It’s not delivery. It’s Di Giorno’s.’
  • Tombstone: Not the best in quality but something about the tanginess of the sauce I’ve always enjoyed.
  • Bagel Bites: Bite-sized pizza bagels. A good snack. Yummy!
  • Freschetta: Good quality. Good packaging. Good taste.
  • Elio’s: Economical and still good. They haven’t changed much as long as I can remember.
  • Totino’s pizza rolls: (Formerly Gino’s) Bite-sized finger snacks. Not bad if you can figure out a way to make sure the little critters don’t pop when you’re heating them up.
  • Tony’s: Not entirely appealing but cheap.
  • Celeste: This has been around for a long time, and for a long time it was the only thing around. The crust tastes like thin wafers of paper. Cheap.
  • Red Baron: Pizza tastes way too plain. Really bland.

Click here to read "Philly Restaurant Guide, 2001"